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E-mail: sfeats@examiner.com

Publication date: 12/25/2002

Hungover and hungry

BY TAMAR LOVE
Special to The Examiner

    Regardless of your New Year's Eve plans, one thing is true: You're going to need to eat the next day.

    But don't think you can just stroll up to any old cafÈ and demand grub. It won't be that easy. Many local eateries got smart and decided not to deal with queasy customers and cranky staff and are taking the day off.

    Because coping with the world while hungover can be tricky, we've prepared this handy list of brunch joints, all open on New Year's Day. We've also rated each restaurant by Hangover Quotient, with five stars indicating an easily negotiated, quiet restaurant with dim lighting, and one star suggesting you might want to sober up a bit -- or drink another beer -- before heading out.

    New Year's nursing

    If you find yourself still up at dawn, stumble over to It's Tops (1801 Market St., 415-431-6395; 8 a.m.- 3 p.m.; ¢) before you crawl home. Hot diner coffee, huge pancakes and fried bacon will give you strength for facing an angry partner/spouse/pair of dogs. Hangover Quotient: ***** (It doesn't get any better than this.)

    We can't think of a better remedy for a nasty hangover than hefty portions of meat, carbs and java, all found in abundance at the Pork Store CafÈ (1451 Haight St., 415-864-6981; 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.; ¢). Arrive early and expect a line. Hangover Quotient: **** (Waiting and hangovers don't mix.)

    In good weather, The Ramp (855 China Basin, 415-621-2378; 10 a.m.-3 p.m.; $) is where you want to be on New Year's Day. Enjoy hot eggs many ways as you finish that pack of smokes you bought the night before -- because it was a "special occasion" -- right on the water. Hangover Quotient: **** (Weather could get ugly. Rain. Hail. Sleet.)

    Scrambles, crepes and frittatas headline the all-day menu at Savor (3913 24th St., 415-282-0344; 8 a.m.-11 p.m.; $), a palatable eatery in the heart of stroller-haven Noe Valley. Purists will love the sticky French toast. Hangover Quotient: *** (You'll need clarity to browse the extensive menu.)

    With Eggs Benedict four ways and unbelievable Bloody Marys, the dog-friendly Rex CafÈ (2323 Polk St., 415-441-2244; 10 a.m.-3 p.m.; $) is a sweet and tasty oasis on Polk Street. Hangover Quotient: *** (French accents can be difficult to understand even when you're sober.)

    Lamb shanks and mojitos make Luna Park (694 Valencia St., 415-553-8584; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; $$) an excellent choice for those hankering for a hunk of meat, and you can sit for hours waiting for food, nursing yourself back to normalcy while the servers bring on the water. Hangover Quotient: **** (Meat good; slow service bad.)

    At Ton Kiang (5821 Geary Blvd., 415-387-8273; 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; $$), steamed trays of The City's best dim sum are sped to your table within seconds of your arrival -- can you say "immediate gratification"? Hangover Quotient: **** (Quick service, but guaranteed line.)

    Ella's (500 Presidio Ave., 415-441-5669; 7 a.m.-2 p.m.; $$) is infamous for its long wait and crowded foyer. However, the superbly rich chicken hash, airy pancakes and unparalleled baked goods make worthwhile every second of your delay. Hangover Quotient: *** (Smelling breakfast while waiting and queasy could be tough combination.)

    Postrio's (545 Post St., 415-776-7825; 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; $$$) soft scrambled eggs with Maine lobster is tempting enough to pry even the most hungover foodie out of bed and into a cab for this Wolfgang Puck-ery. Hangover Quotient: ** (Too many kinds of forks can be confusing for the drunk.)

    Fanciest and most potentially satisfying place to brunch in San Francisco -- all-you-can-eat caviar, blinis, sushi and eggs -- the Ritz Carlton (600 Stockton St., 415-773-6198; 9 a.m.-3 p.m.; $$$) is not for the impromptu java fix. Reservations are required for this elegant champagne buffet brunch, and must be guaranteed with a credit card. Hangover Quotient: * (You'll need to keep your wits about you.)

    PRICE RANGE

    ¢ = Entrees less than $7

    $ = Entrees between $7-$10

    $$ = Entrees between $10-$15

    $$$ = Entrees more than $15

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