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SF Station District Profile by Tamar Love Grande
Published by SF Station, 2002
Go elsewhere for your two eggs, short stack and sausage links. Hayes Valley exemplifies the soul of San Francisco: eclectic ethnic fare presented with style and substance. As you walk from whatever distant location you parked at to the restaurant of your choice, make sure to stop in and take a look at some of the local stores. While most of them are incredibly expensive, they also offer one-of-a-kind gifts and a generally delightful shopping experience. If you're looking for something beyond a short stack and an eggs bennie, Terra Brazilis, the newish Brazilian place at the top of Hayes Valley, has the most interesting brunch menu we've seen in a long time: Corcovado French Toast (brioche, coconut sauce, red bananas & raisins), South American Vegetable Hash with Poached Eggs, Bacalao & Scallion Scramble. Prices are reasonable, with entrees topping out at $9.00 for breakfast fare.
Across the street, Suppenküche also serves up a darned interesting brunch. The menu, written in German with English subtitles, comes to you straight from the Black Forest: Herbed Quark, Cured Gravlox and Miisli. More accessible (but still interesting) dishes include Farmers Omelet with Potatoes, Bacon and Cheese, Sautéed German Ravioli scrambled with Eggs and Onions, and Emperor's Pancake with Brandied Raisins, served with Apple and Plum Compote. Those new to Suppenküche will undoubtedly be confused by the wooden slab tables, the tankards of ale and the communal seating. Just relax: go with the flow and you'll have a great time (and maybe make a new friend).
Another ethnic experience awaits further down Hayes Street at Powell's Place, San Francisco's definitive Soul Food restaurant. The food may give you a heart attack, but the prices won't; for a mere $6.00, you can feast on two eggs, hash browns or grits, toast or biscuits and two smoked sausages. Other favorites include pancakes, French toast, omelets and eggs any way you want them. The service is excellent, with as much Southern politeness as you'd expect from a restaurant with such authentic decor: bookshelves, living room furniture and an upright piano make this soul kitchen feel like grandma's house. Further down the street, The Blue Muse serves up an average kind of San Francisco brunch: Eggs Benedict, Eggs Juneau, pancakes and scrambles are available at reasonable prices. While the food isn't as spectacular (or as diverse) as most places in Hayes Valley, the Blue Muse does offer a very competitive edge in one area: stargazing. Local opera, symphony and ballet performers have been known to frequent this easily missed little spot. Belly up to the gorgeous mahogany bar and sip a Mimosa while taking in the local sights.
The fanciest brunch can be had at Absinthe, named for the now-forbidden liquor of choice for many European Impressionist painters. While the menu isn't as extensive as we'd like, it does offer some rather glamorous options: an omelet with wild mushrooms and fontina, French toast with ricotta filling, banana-blueberry soufflé pancakes and the traditional Crouque Monsieur--a toasted French Madrange ham and Gruyère cheese sandwich--all titillated our tastebuds. We also liked the flaky cinnamon roll, but wondered why it was served cold. But the food (and VERY reasonable prices) aside, the real reason to come to Absinthe is to surround yourself with luxury. From the plush, velvet-covered banquettes to the richly painted walls and elegant furnishings, brunching at Absinthe will put you right inside a Toulouse Lautrec painting.
Note: While it doesn't serve a full brunch menu, Citizen Cake cannot be missed. Dine in or take out, but do stop by and sample some of the most delectable pastries, muffins and cakes in the city.
Terra Brazilis
602 Hayes Street
(Hayes @ Laguna)
phone: 415.241.1900
Brunch hours: Sat - Sun, 11 am - 2:30 pm
Süppenkuche
601 Hayes Street
(Hayes @ Laguna)
phone: 415.252.9289
Brunch hours: Sat - Sun, 10 am - 2:30 pm
Powell's Place
511 Hayes Street
(Hayes @ Octavia)
phone: 415.862.1404
Brunch hours: Sat - Sun, 9 am - noon
The Blue Muse
409 Gough Street
(Gough @ Hayes)
phone: 415.626.7505
Brunch hours: Sat - Sun, 9 am - 3 pm
Absinthe Brasserie & Bar
389 Hayes Street
(Hayes @ Gough)
phone: 415.551.1590
Brunch hours: Sat - Sun, 10:30 am - 3 pm
Citizen Cake
399 Grove Street
(Grove @ Gough)
phone: 415.861.2228
Hours: Mon - Tue, 7 am - 3 pm
Wed - Thu, 7 am - 8 pm, Sat - Sun, 9 am - 8 pm
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