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Beyond the Short
Stack
Brunching in
Hayes Valley
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by Tamar
Love
Go elsewhere for your
two eggs, short stack and sausage links. Hayes Valley
exemplifies the soul of San Francisco: eclectic ethnic
fare presented with style and substance. As you walk
from whatever distant location you parked at to the
restaurant of your choice, make sure to stop in and take
a look at some of the local stores. While most of them
are incredibly expensive, they also offer one-of-a-kind
gifts and a generally delightful shopping experience. If
you're looking for something beyond a short stack and an
eggs bennie, Terra Brazilis, the newish Brazilian place
at the top of Hayes Valley, has the most interesting
brunch menu we've seen in a long time: Corcovado French
Toast (brioche, coconut sauce, red bananas &
raisins), South American Vegetable Hash with Poached
Eggs, Bacalao & Scallion Scramble. Prices are
reasonable, with entrees topping out at $9.00 for
breakfast fare.
.tmp) Across the street,
Suppenküche also serves up a darned interesting brunch.
The menu, written in German with English subtitles,
comes to you straight from the Black Forest: Herbed
Quark, Cured Gravlox and Miisli. More accessible (but
still interesting) dishes include Farmers Omelet with
Potatoes, Bacon and Cheese, Sautéed German Ravioli
scrambled with Eggs and Onions, and Emperor's Pancake
with Brandied Raisins, served with Apple and Plum
Compote. Those new to Suppenküche will undoubtedly be
confused by the wooden slab tables, the tankards of ale
and the communal seating. Just relax: go with the flow
and you'll have a great time (and maybe make a new
friend).
Another ethnic experience awaits further
down Hayes Street at Powell's Place, San Francisco's
definitive Soul Food restaurant. The food may give you a
heart attack, but the prices won't; for a mere $6.00,
you can feast on two eggs, hash browns or grits, toast
or biscuits and two smoked sausages. Other favorites
include pancakes, French toast, omelets and eggs any way
you want them. The service is excellent, with as much
Southern politeness as you'd expect from a restaurant
with such authentic decor: bookshelves, living room
furniture and an upright piano make this soul kitchen
feel like grandma's house. Further down the street, The
Blue Muse serves up an average kind of San Francisco
brunch: Eggs Benedict, Eggs Juneau, pancakes and
scrambles are available at reasonable prices. While the
food isn't as spectacular (or as diverse) as most places
in Hayes Valley, the Blue Muse does offer a very
competitive edge in one area: stargazing. Local opera,
symphony and ballet performers have been known to
frequent this easily missed little spot. Belly up to the
gorgeous mahogany bar and sip a Mimosa while taking in
the local sights.
.tmp) The fanciest brunch can
be had at Absinthe, named for the now-forbidden liquor
of choice for many European Impressionist painters.
While the menu isn't as extensive as we'd like, it does
offer some rather glamorous options: an omelet with wild
mushrooms and fontina, French toast with ricotta
filling, banana-blueberry soufflé pancakes and the
traditional Crouque Monsieur--a toasted French Madrange
ham and Gruyère cheese sandwich--all titillated our
tastebuds. We also liked the flaky cinnamon roll, but
wondered why it was served cold. But the food (and VERY
reasonable prices) aside, the real reason to come to
Absinthe is to surround yourself with luxury. From the
plush, velvet-covered banquettes to the richly painted
walls and elegant furnishings, brunching at Absinthe
will put you right inside a Toulouse Lautrec
painting.
Note: While it doesn't serve a full
brunch menu, Citizen Cake cannot be missed. Dine in or
take out, but do stop by and sample some of the most
delectable pastries, muffins and cakes in the
city.
Terra
Brazilis
602 Hayes
Street
(Hayes @ Laguna)
phone:
415.241.1900
Brunch hours: Sat - Sun, 11 am - 2:30
pm
Süppenkuche
601 Hayes Street
(Hayes @
Laguna)
phone: 415.252.9289
Brunch hours: Sat -
Sun, 10 am - 2:30 pm
Powell's
Place
511 Hayes Street
(Hayes
@ Octavia)
phone: 415.862.1404
Brunch hours: Sat -
Sun, 9 am - noon
The
Blue Muse
409 Gough
Street
(Gough @ Hayes)
phone:
415.626.7505
Brunch hours: Sat - Sun, 9 am - 3
pm
Absinthe
Brasserie & Bar
389 Hayes
Street
(Hayes @ Gough)
phone:
415.551.1590
Brunch hours: Sat - Sun, 10:30 am - 3
pm
Citizen
Cake
399 Grove Street
(Grove
@ Gough)
phone: 415.861.2228
Hours: Mon - Tue, 7
am - 3 pm, Wed - Thu, 7 am - 8 pm, Sat - Sun, 9 am - 8
pm
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..p a s
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.tmp)
Liverpool
Lil's
Brunching
in the Avenues
Golden
Boy Pizza
Nasturtium
Butterfly
Li
Po
22o2
Sno
Drift
Café
Riggio
Twenty
Four
Venture
Frogs Restaurant
North
Star Restaurant
Ana
Mandara
Sushigroove
South
Potrero
Brewing Company
Murray's
Glasshouse Restaurant
Clémentine
Jack's
Restaurant
Xanadu:
RestorAsian Cuisine
Barcelona
Zinzino
Alamo
Square: A Seafood Grill
Fringale
Watergate
Le
Colonial
The
Elite Cafe
Indigo
A.G.
Ferrari Foods
Magnolia
E&O
Trading Company
Backflip
Sushigroove
Thailand
Restaurant
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Café Monk
SOMA's hip new hangout
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Review by Tracie
Broom
Dan Friedlander (local
mastermind of LIMN fame) and wife Kazuyo have recently
opened a homey, hip bistro just across from Fringale in
SOMA's 4th and Brannan hood. Tucked into a teensy side
street, this two-story restaurant, bar, cafe and gallery
space serves delicious new Californian food--think
tomatoey grilled sardines, top-flite Caesars,
chanterelle-laden wood-fired pizzas and glazed duck
breasts, all priced in the mid-range zone: apps and
entrees range roughly from $6 to $16.
Cafe
Monk
564 Fourth
Street
(Fourth @ Brannan)
phone:
415.777.1331
cafemonk.com
Café
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